28 Easy Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

How to Grow Lettuce

Lettuce grows quickly (some varieties are ready for picking in just over a month) so the best approach is to plant in small batches every 10-14 days for the duration of the growing season.

That said, there are several factors to consider before you plant.

Grow Guide for Lettuce

In our detailed grow guide for how to grow lettuce you will find all the information you need.

How to Grow Beans

With the right soil composition, frequent watering, and a careful eye on nutrient consumption, your beans will flourish in no time.

For smaller “bush” beans, you may not need any kind of support. But, for climbing bean varieties, trellises or “walls” that the beans can climb are absolutely necessary.

Grow Guide for Beans

In our in-depth grow guide for how to grow beans, we explain when, where and how you should plant beans in your garden. We also ocover watering and fertilizer needs as well as weeding. Finally, we take a look at the most common bean pests and diseases – and how you can avoid them.

How to Grow Carrots

Plant them in the early spring, and make finding or preparing the right soil your number one carrot-related priority.

Carrots love sandy soil – or soil that’s well-tilled, at the very least. That’s because they have to push through the soil to grow, and tightly-packed, poorly-draining soil will stunt or disfigure them.

This is the same reason why your carrot plot should be free of stones – although they do produce some funny shapes when they grow into rocks and other barriers.

Other important factors are sun exposure, planting distances and thinning, as well as correct watering. While carrots are generally pest- and disease-resistant, heavily weeded areas make the spread of diseases and pests to your crop more likely. Weed roots can also impede the grow of your carrots, so make sure to keep your carrot crop weed-free for the duration of its stay in the soil.

Grow Guide for Carrots

If you’d like to know more about planting, growing and harvesting carrots in your garden, read our detailed grow guide here and become an expert carrot gardener!

How to Grow Radish

Preparing the radish bed will be the most work your radishes require. As long as you add some compost or manure to the soil, you won't need to add any fertilizer.

In general, growing radish requires very little work. You can even have several harvests per year! Thinning, weeding and watering regularly are the main steps to take care of your growing plants.

Grow Guide for Radish

For more detailed information, read our grow guide for radish. You will learn when and where to plant the seeds, how to prepare the soil, how much watering your radish plants need, and much more.

We also cover the most common pests and diseases that might jeopardize your crop. And finally, we'll look at companion planting with radishes as well as how to grow them indoors.

How to Grow Spinach

Spinach tends to be a labor-light vegetable crop, but there are still a few important factors that determine the green’s success.

Soil

Your garden bed should be in a well-drained area with well-drained soil and should use soil with minimal clay content. Otherwise, the soil may not allow enough air in, and standing water could “drown” your plants.

Planting

Plant your spinach seeds about ½-inch deep; the spacing won’t matter too much at the get-go, as you’ll separate the plants to about 2-5 inches apart when they reach 2 inches in height.

Harvesting

Another great thing about spinach is that knowing when to harvest requires zero gardening knowledge. Start picking away when the leaves are big enough to eat—but don’t wait till the plants bolt (flower and seed) or you’ll end up with bitter and unappetizing leaves.

Pests and problems

Spinach pests, diseases, and other perils are limited, but can include:

• Blight: Like other forms of blight, spinach blight is characterized by splotchy leaves. There’s no cure: remove the affected plants so they don’t infect your whole crop.
• Leaf miners: These are an unpleasant common pest for many leafy crops. Use an alternative crop to draw them away: many farmers plant leafy root vegetables nearby, as they’ll eat the leaves without ruining the root (the part you harvest for cooking).
• Nutrient deficiency: Characterized by slow growth and general failure to thrive. Use fertilizer on plants that are one third to one half of the way to maturity to combat this issue. Spinach tyically only requires fertilizer (most commonly nitrogen supplements) in nutrient-deficient soil.

Note that these plant plagues are pretty universal across leafy vegetable varieties, as are their solutions. 

The fun part(s)

Spinach doesn’t have to be limited to an in-ground garden. Get creative with raised beds, covered beds for cool winters, straw bales, or even decorative “potted crop” gardens—it’s versatile enough to suit almost any planting option.

No matter where you harvest it from, spinach is just as delicious raw as it is cooked. Toss it up with a salad, blend it in a smoothie, or sauté it with pasta—it’s equally enjoyable every way!

How to Grow Tomatoes

These juicy, colorful fruits require a little soil and staking love in the beginning, but are often hands-off crops once established.

Feed tomatoes well

Before planting, it’s crucial to provide your tomatoes with nutrient-rich soil—mix in several inches of compost and a high-quality fertilizer, preferably one specifically made for tomatoes. Fertilize as necessary throughout the season, providing extra nutrients if the leaves become discolored.

Choose a spot with full sun

Tomatoes need 6-8 hours of full sun to thrive, so it’s best to give them their own plot out of the reach of trees and structures.

Plan to transplant

There are two ways to buy tomatoes—as seeds or seedlings (tomato starters). If you’re buying tomato seeds, you’ll want to start the seeds in trays indoors about 6-8 weeks before you plan to transplant them. Don’t plant them until the soil is warm enough to work comfortably.

How to plant tomatoes

A successful planting venture requires three main components—deep planting, good watering, and staking or caging.

Help the tomato roots get established

Tomato plants do best when they’re planted deeply enough that their roots can take a firm hold early. To that end, trim off the bottom layer of baby leaves on your transplants, then plant the stalk and cover it with soil up to the new bottom layer of leaves.

This is even more effective because tomato stems have little hairs on their stems. If these hairs are covered with soil, they will often develop into full-grown roots, which provide you with a stronger root system.

Water well

Immediately after planting, give the baby tomatoes a good watering to help them get established after the change in environment. Keep watering regularly throughout the season to avoid issues such as cracked fruit.

Stake and cage right away

Stakes and cages should both be added immediately after planting to encourage proper (and stable) growth of your young plants.

Stakes and cages serve one primary purpose—and that, of course, is to keep them growing upright instead of dragging their fruits on the ground.

Why is that important? Tomato plants are far more prone to infection by diseases and pests if left untethered.

Alternative support methods

Aside from straight stakes and round cages, there are a few more creative ways to support your tomato plants. For example, you can try trellises (overhead supports, often used as a decorative feature and usually requiring that tomato vines be tied to the support with string).

Tomatoes can also be held up with row-long stake designs with several layers of twine running between two poles across the row. For this method, you also need to secure each plant to the twine using twist-ties, string, or similar materials.

To prune or not to prune

Some gardeners say that pruning non-productive new stems (sometimes called sucker stems) is a must for increasing tomato yield and growth speed—less branches to feed should mean more energy going to the fruit. Others say it makes no difference. The scientific verdict is still out, but if you choose to try pruning, here’s how:

• The space between the main stem and its offshoot branches (which produce tomatoes) forms a “v”. This is where small “sucker stems” form—prune these with shears or another sharp cutting device.
• Don’t start pruning until the plants are at least 12 inches (30 cm) tall; otherwise, the damage may harm the young plants.

Handling tomato pests and diseases

Unfortunately, humans aren’t the only ones addicted to tomatoes. Many pests and diseases are, too.

• Tomato hornworm: This giant, green, worm-like creature loves to munch on the leaves and fruits of your tomato plants. They’re both gross and potentially crop-ruining, so work to combat them by removing and killing them on sight, employing insecticides, or experimenting with companion plants.
• Blight: Like many edible plants, tomatoes are susceptible to a nasty fungal infection called blight that’s made worse by damp conditions. If you notice this moldy tomato plague, remove and destroy the infected plant immediately.
• Rot and fungal diseases: Tomato plants are susceptible to other dampness-induced diseases that can ruin a crop. If you live in a particularly damp area, consider growing tomatoes in a small greenhouse; otherwise, this can be avoided by hand-watering directly at the soil (instead of at the plant) or installing a simple drip irrigation system.

How to Grow Cucumbers

Cucumbers are fairly easy to grow under the right conditions. Select a site with full sun, create healthy soil conditions, and plant mindfully to create a fast-growing and healthy cucumber crop.

How to prepare cucumbers’ soil

First, it’s important to know that cucumbers need plentiful nutrients, so work in compost and fertilizer before you plant.

Keep the temperatures right

Cucumbers do tend to be finicky about the weather. They absolutely cannot survive a frost, so make sure that danger is about 2 weeks in the rearview mirror before planting.

The soil also needs to be 70°F (21°C) or hotter for germination to occur, so those in cooler climates will benefit from laying down plastic or mulching thoroughly to encourage warmer soil temperatures.

How to plant cucumbers

Once conditions are right, it’s time to plant. Seeds and seedlings should be planted about an inch deep and 3 or more feet (0.9 m) apart. If you plan to trellis your cucumbers to keep them clean and avoid disease, they can be planted as close as 1 foot (.3 m) apart.

How to keep cucumbers healthy

As the plants establish themselves, the main thing they’ll require is water—if the soil is dry, it’s past time to water. If you don’t, the fruit won’t have that sweet, watery quality many people love.

Water from down below

While cucumbers need copious amounts of water to thrive, their leaves require quite the opposite. Water the soil directly (as opposed to showering the plants) with a hose; or, better yet, install a simple irrigation system to keep the leaves dry.

Otherwise, you may develop issues with leaf mildew, which requires vigilant fungicide use to salvage the plants.

How to use cucumbers

We all know the reason most people grow cucumbers—to turn them into pickles. But they’re a more versatile vegetable than many people think:

• Spice up those pickle jars with garlic, Indian spices, and other vegetables from your garden.
• Add them to salads—they go particularly well with tomatoes and a bit of Italian or Greek cheese.
• Make a cucumber and yogurt sauce reminiscent of Greek dishes.
• Pair them with your favorite sandwich or sushi for a refreshing crunch.

How to Grow Squash

First, plan out their plot. Look for a spot with full sun and good drainage, and make sure they’ll have loose, fertile soil.

Prep your plot

Once you’ve chosen your squashes’ home, it needs to be prepared with plenty of nutrients. Mix compost into the soil before planting, and be prepared to fertilize as necessary throughout the season.

Weed (and then weed some more)

Squash fruit sits directly on the ground as it grows (it’s heavy, after all) and the plants don’t take well to weed-y soil. Weed at least once before it comes time to plant, and make sure to mulch after planting to keep weed growth to a minimum.

Check your soil temperature

Squash won’t grow well in soil cooler than 60°F (15°C), so be prepared with a soil thermometer—or, if you must start the plants early, warm the soil with dark mulch or plastic beforehand. If you can’t get the temperature up, hold off on planting.

Don’t transplant

Squash plants do best as direct seeders, as their roots are very fragile.

Maintaining your squash plants

Once your squash plants are settled in to their new homes—several feet apart, please, as they grow to large proportions—you want to mulch to keep weeds down and moisture levels up.

Then, water regularly

Squash plants need plenty of water to thrive. Keep the soil moist with one or more thorough waterings a week all the way through to harvest time.

Fertilize regularly, too

Again, squash are heavy feeders. The compost will likely get them off to a sufficient start, but as the fruits near maturity, fertilizing several times pre-harvest (and during harvest weeks) will lead to larger, healthier fruits.

Harvesting squash plants

Because squash are fruit-bearing plants, it’s relatively easy to tell when the fruits can be picked. As a general rule, squash take 2-3 months to reach maturity. If you’re not confident in using time alone as a guide, most summer varieties are ready 1-3 weeks after the plants start to flower.

Winter squash can be harvested when the rind—its outer layer—is hard. This is contrary to summer squash, which should be picked while the rind is still soft.

Squash storage

Of course, squash can be used in just about any dish, but what do you do with it while you wait to cook it?

• Summer squash can be kept in the refrigerator—it’ll last at least a week.
• Winter squash should be kept in a cool, but not cold, place. (Try to keep them somewhere that doesn’t get below 50°F or 10°C.) Cool sheds protected from the elements work, as do basements.

How to Grow Beets

First, make sure your soil nutrients are up to snuff by mixing in some manure and a phosphorus supplement. Be wary of nitrogen: unless you know that your soil is deficient in it, it can actually impede the healthy growth of your beets.

Soil type matters

Beets aren’t as forgiving as other vegetables, so steer them clear of extremely clay-heavy soil for drainage purposes. If you have high-clay soil, mix in a liberal amount of lighter soil to compensate.

Water beets regularly

Don’t drown them, but you should certainly keep your beet plants’ soil moist at all times.

Mulch feeds beets in many ways

Mulch is an all-around good idea—it discourages weeds and can look more attractive, after all. But it’s important for beets in particular because it can help keep soil temperatures down and keep the soil moist, both of which keep beets growing happily, healthily, and quickly.

At harvest, things get easier

The great thing about beets is that you can harvest them pretty much whenever you want—take a look at the size of the top of the root and get a good grip to yank it out when it’s the size you want.

Oftentimes, the roots are more flavorful and sweet when they’re a smaller size, so this is a great time to pick them if you have a larger crop.

The greens, however, can be picked at any time, and they will usually regrow to yield another round of nutritious leafy vegetables.

How to Grow Kale

Kale is almost as versatile on the planting front as it is in the kitchen. Plant it in the spring or summer and harvest it in the fall or early winter.

Fertilize the soil before planting

The one thing your kale asks of you is that you give it a nutrient-rich bed to lay in. To that end, mix compost into your garden bed before planting your seeds or seedlings.

Then, fertilize as necessary throughout the season: kale loves nitrogen and potassium in particular, but don’t overdo it. Compost may be plenty nutritious for your plants, but if the leaves start to look sickly, it’s time to fertilize.

Planting kale

Kale seeds or seedlings should be planted 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) deep and 1-2 feet (.3-.6 m) apart from each other, as they grow to an impressive size.

Thinning

If you’re planting from seed, consider planting them closer together (6-8 inches apart) and then thinning them after a few weeks so it’s easier to maintain the young plants in their early stages.

Kale as a winter crop

Although kale usually won’t continue producing harvests all the way through the winter, it can remain alive, well, and ready to pick at temperatures as low as 20°F (-7 °C). Regardless of the time of year, kale leaves can be harvested when they’re about 6-7 inches (15-18 cm) in length.

Extending the season

To keep your kale going strong in the colder months (or the first few, at least) try adding a row cover.

Add a thick layer of mulch throughout your kale bed after the first frost or when the weather remains reliably cold to help regulate temperatures, promote good drainage, and nourish the plants.

In milder climates, your kale may continue producing leaves through most or all of the winter.

How to Grow Peppers

Peppers need a soil temperature of at least 70°F (21°C) to germinate, so start your seeds indoors about 10 weeks before the last frost to give them a head start.

Before you plant

Keep in mind that peppers can’t just be transplanted from indoor to outdoor homes. They need to be “hardened off”, which is the process of gradually acclimating plants to their new outdoor environment.

Hardening off pepper seedlings

Start by bringing them outside for just an hour or two per day, gradually increasing their exposure to the outdoors. Give them a bit more sun access every day for a week or more—you can even leave them out over night on the last several nights if there’s no danger of below-freezing temperatures.

Meanwhile, fertilize

While you’re preparing your plants for a healthy transition, make sure to prepare your soil too. At about the time when you start hardening off your pepper plants, introduce compost or other high-quality natural fertilizer into the soil.

Fertilization after planting

You should provide additional nutrients when your first fruits take shape to help them become robust, healthy fruits faster.

Watering

Peppers need frequent watering to grow, but be careful—the soil needs to be well-drained and, if it isn’t, you may need to water less frequently to avoid drowning the plants. Peppers won’t tolerate droughts well so, in extremely hot and sunny climates, they may need to be watered liberally every day.

How to plant peppers

Once both your soil and plants are prepped and the danger of frost has passed, it’s time to transplant. Place your seedlings about two feet (.6 m) apart from one another; however, keep in mind that pepper plants grow best in close-together pairs, as the leaves from each plant help protect the other from sun damage.

How to harvest peppers

Pepper harvesting is a fairly straightforward task. They’re ready to harvest when they reach your desired size—just cut them off with sharp scissors or knives to avoid damaging the plants.

Bell peppers can be left on the plant longer to increase their nutrient content and give them a sweeter flavor. They can also be harvested while they’re still green for a milder flavor.

How to Grow Peas

Peas grow fast but have a short growing season, so preparation is key to getting the most out of your crop.

Pre-planting work for peas

In the fall before your planting, amend your intended pea-plant bed with manure or fertilizer.

Sun requirements

Peas are more flexible in this department than other plants—4 to 8 hours of sunlight will suit them plenty.

Watering pea plants

Peas don’t need a ton of water to thrive: just make sure the soil stays moist. If it’s totally dry for extended periods, you may not see pods at all.

Where to plant peas

Peas can be grown in a variety of locations.

• In a garden bed: Sow seeds directly into the ground, one inch (2.5 cm) deep and 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) apart.
• In a raised bed: This is best for those with less-than-ideal soil or a desire for a more visually appealing garden.
• In pots or containers: Plant one or two seeds per large planter, thinning if both take root.

Harvesting peas

Harvesting peas is, luckily, almost as easy as growing them.

When to harvest

Harvest the pods when they are big enough for your needs—it’s that simple.

Time of day matters

Harvest your pea pods in the morning. They tend to have the best flavor and crunch when they’re picked early.

How to harvest

Simply pinch off the pods with your fingers or twist them off the stem. Harvest the pods often to encourage new growth and a greater overall yield for the season.

How to use peas

Depending on the variety you plant, peas can be used in a range of dishes, and they can be enjoyed cooked or raw.

Pod varieties

The edible pod varieties are great in stir-fries and salads or eaten raw for a crunchy, nutrient-rich treat.

Seed varieties

The pea-only varieties can be used as a classic side dish, added to soups, or even canned or frozen if you grow a large crop.

How to Grow Basil

Basil can be started indoors up to two months before the last spring frost, and it can also be planted directly from seed. Whether they’re started from seed or planted as transplants, basil plants fare best when they’re planted between 1 and 2 feet apart (.3-.6 m).

But before planting, it’s important to find the best spot for your basil to thrive.

Pick the right spot

Basil grows best in full sun (6 hours or more of sunlight per day). It also needs moist, well-drained soil and frequent watering to thrive. Those in especially hot climates may need to water daily.

Don’t allow flowering

Like many other plants, leaf growth on basil slows or stops if the plants are allowed to flower freely. When you notice flowers starting to bud, pinch them off or cut them from the plant.

Basil loves mulch

Basil is a hot-season crop, but that doesn’t mean it won’t feel the effects of harsh summers. To keep basil moist and cool in the hottest periods of summer, add a layer of mulch over their plot or build it up around the plants themselves.

Harvesting basil

Basil should yield constant harvests during the height of summer. Pick the leaves regularly and freeze or dry any excess—if basil plants aren’t thinned back regularly through harvesting, the leaves won’t grow as quickly.

How to use basil

Basil can be used in everything from sauces to sandwiches. To enjoy some summer-y basil classics, try your hand at:

• Tomato, basil, and mozarella salads and sandwiches (the basil remains raw)
• Pesto sauce
• Adding it to tomato sauces and salad dressings

How to Grow Mint

Mint is refreshingly easy to grow. Give it moist soil that’s well-drained and within reach of full to mostly full sun (5-8 hours of sun per day). It will provide you with a variety of culinary, decorative, and medicinal possibilities for years to come.

How to plant mint

Mint is typically planted as an already-grown plant, but can also be grown from clippings. The clippings will even grow roots in a glass of water if you’re not quite ready to add them to the garden yet. 

Regardless of whether you’re using clippings or pre-grown plants, give them ample space in their new garden bed—they should be planted 2 or more feet (.6 m) apart, as they’ll fill a large amount of space in no time.

Harvesting mint

Mint leaves are best when they’re young, although you can pick them at any time. Pick the leaves regularly and use them while they’re still fresh for the best results.

The many uses for mint

Sure, you can’t use mint as the main attraction on a dinner plate, but it has plenty of other applications.

• Make mint-flavored iced tea.
• Make a fresh, hot mint tea: herbalists tout it for everything from stomach ease to anxiety relief.
• Add your mint to a salad for a summery zing.
• Use it in dressings and sauces for a unique flair.

How to grow celery

Celery can tolerate one mild frost but won’t make it through a second, so make sure to plan your planting accordingly.

Seed starters for celery

Because most areas don’t have long enough springs and falls for celery’s growing period (often three months or more), most gardeners choose to start their celery indoors. To expedite the process, try soaking your celery seeds in water for a day before planting them in trays.

Transplanting celery

Make sure your soil is prepared to welcome celery with open arms: there should be generous amounts of fertilizer or compost mixed in before planting occurs.

Because celery is on the larger side, each seedling should be planted about a foot from the next. Make their holes about ¼ of an inch deep.

Water, water, water celery

It’s no wonder so many people think “water” when they think “celery”. Starting immediately after transplant, celery’s soil must be kept moist or totally wet; even a brief period of dryness can toughen the stalks and make them unappetizing.

Celery’s long shelf life

Don’t worry too much about over-planting celery. It can stay healthy and edible for 2 weeks to a month in your refrigerator, and you can use it in just about everything:

• Stir-fries
• Soups
• As a peanut butter or cream cheese “boat”
• As a garnish for drinks

How to grow onions

The most complex part of growing onions is the soil preparation; after that, a little minor maintenance will yield beautiful bulbs.

Fertilize

For the best results, mix in generous amounts of manure or compost to your intended onion plot in the fall, then plant in the early spring. This gives the compost and manure time to release their nutrients into the soil; because onions “leech” nutrients in large amounts, it’s important that they have access to plentiful quantities. That’s also why you’ll have to fertilize periodically after planting.

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Nitrogen

When it comes time to plant (usually at the start of spring), use nitrogen fertilizer on the plot. Continue using it every 3-4 weeks until your bulbs start to peek out through the soil.

Keep them moist

Onions don’t need constant moisture, but more water does tend to mean more flavor (to a point). To help retain moisture when you can’t quite keep up with watering, place a layer of mulch over the onion plot.

Harvesting onions

Onions tell you they’re almost ready to harvest through their tops. When the tops turn yellow, break them; then, a few days to a week later, dig up the onions and allow them to cure in the sunlight.

Color changes signal the next step

Much like with the yellow tops, color changes let you know that onions are done “curing”. When they turn brown in the sunlight, remove them from the garden and allow them to finish drying (if necessary). Then you can store them in the basement or another other cool location. 

Late summer is the right time to harvest

Don’t let the fall set in before harvesting your onions if they’ve signaled they’re ready to come up. The change in temperatures can cause the onions to rot.

Be gentle

Don’t poke and prod your onions any more than necessary at any stage—if they bruise, they’ll rot.

How to grow potatoes

Your potato prep work will be the toughest part of cultivating the famous tuber; take the time to get it right and maintenance, harvesting, and cooking will be a breeze.

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Choosing the right time

Potatoes should be planted two weeks or less before the last big frost of the season (they don’t tolerate extreme cold well).

“Planting” is different in potato terms

When it comes to potatoes, you won’t just go out and buy a packet of seeds. You’ll either purchase or make your own “seed potatoes”, which are small potatoes or small pieces of potatoes that are allowed to start growing eyes.

Making or selecting seed potatoes

To make your own seed potato, simply cut a large potato into pieces with at least one eye per piece or select small-sized potatoes with eyes. Each seed potato should be no larger than an average egg and should have at least one eye. For potato pieces, wait 1-3 days before planting them to toughen the skin against disease.

Preparing potatoes’ soil

While you wait, mix a generous amount of manure or compost into the soil you plan to plant. Potatoes thrive in nutrient-rich soil.

Choosing the right spot

Make sure your plot of choice contains loose, well-drained soil, as too much moisture can cause your potatoes to rot—but they need to be kept moist to flourish, so drainage is crucial. If you have high-clay soil, consider planting in containers or mixing in lighter soil to compensate.

Planting potatoes

Once the prep work is done, it’s time to plant. Place each seed potato 4-8 inches (10-20 cm) deep in the ground and about 12 inches (30 cm) apart.

Keep them covered and moist

The most important thing you can do for your potatoes is to cover them with a layer of soil (called “hilling”) every few weeks to ensure they’re not exposed to the sun; sunlight causes the potatoes to become green and toxic to consume.

Do your best to keep the soil moist, but not soaked, at all times.

Potato pests

Potatoes aren’t completely immune to “buggery” just because they’re under the ground. Common pest problems include:

• Aphids: Combat them with frequent blasts of water. These critters can cause diseases to spread to your plants, so staying on the lookout for them is crucial.
• Leaf-hoppers: These can also be fought off with daily “showers”.

Weed maintenance also goes a long way in keeping pest problems from getting out of control.

Harvesting potatoes

On average, potatoes take 2-3 months to mature, although some varieties take much longer.

When are they ready to harvest?

The easiest way to tell when potato plants are ready to harvest is when their greens become wilt-y and brown.

Preparing to harvest

Cut back those dying greens and wait as long as two weeks before harvest—the longer you leave tubers in the ground, the thicker their skin will be and the longer they’ll last in storage. Don’t wait longer than two weeks, though, or they may rot.

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How to dig

If your soil is loose enough, it’s best to dig with nothing but garden gloves—shovels and other garden tools could damage your potatoes and shorten their lifespans. Push dirt away with your hands or a blunt tool, then wrap your fingers gently around each tuber.

Storing potatoes

Harvested potatoes should be stored at about 40°F (4°C) for the longest possible shelf life.

Alternative growing methods

The beautiful thing about potatoes is that they can be grown in just about anything that meets the above qualifications, including:

• Trash cans
• Large pots
• Barrels
• The ever-popular “pile of tires” (painted for extra décor points): Vertical structures like this make it easy to keep adding soil to protect your potatoes from the sunlight.
• In straw bales (especially great because of straw’s loose nature)
• In bags

How to grow corn

Corn is often thought of as a largescale farm crop, but you can grow it in a big garden too. Just make sure to plant it in a block or square, not in a single row: it needs to be grouped together for pollination purposes. Be sure to choose a sweet corn variety, too, as standard field corn is primarily grown as animal feed.

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When and how

Plant seeds directly into the ground in the springtime—corn doesn’t do well indoors.

But first, fertilize

Before you do, fertilization is key. Corn eats like an elephant, so you should aim to use copious amounts of compost or manure in your soil the fall before your spring planting; if that isn’t possible, work it in as soon as your soil can be worked in the spring. 

Fertilize your corn plants again 5-6 weeks after planting.

Sun and soil are crucial for corn

Your corn will also need full sun and balanced, well-drained soil to thrive.

Water corn copiously

Corn doesn’t do well in dry conditions, so it’s important to keep its soil moist at all times. For larger plots, consider a simple home irrigation system, but small squares of corn plants can be watered by hand.

Harvesting corn

Knowing when to harvest corn is fairly simple, as its texture and appearance let you know what stage of the growing process it’s in.

Color

The “silks” that stick out from the end of corn ears turn a dark brown when the corn is ready to harvest.

Texture and shape

The corn kernels will also emit a milky substance when the ear is ripe for picking. If it’s too thick, the corn is past its prime and should be discarded; if the substance is clear, the ear isn’t ready yet.

You can also wrap your hands around the ear to make sure it’s plump enough to be worth picking. Thin and straight ears typically aren’t ready for harvest yet.

Harvesting technique for corn

Corn is simple to harvest. Just hold the stalk steady with one hand, then twist the ear and bend it as necessary until it comes off. It’s not unlike harvesting a tomato from a vine.

How to grow chard

Chard, like spinach, requires thinning post-emergence, but is otherwise a pretty simple leafy green to grow.

Soil conditions

You want your chard to live in an area that’s well-drained and nutrient-rich (or that you can fertilize well). The soil should be light and not too full of clay or other hostile soil types.

Sun and weather conditions

Chard fares best in full sun (although it will tolerate partial), so aim for a spot where it will have six hours or more of uninterrupted sunshine for the best results.

Other weather

It can tolerate a great deal of moisture so long as the area is well-drained. Chard is also hardy enough to tolerate a mild frost, but plan your planting to avoid this—frosts can sometimes force chard into a premature bolt, effectively ruining your would-be harvest.

Planting

Plant your seeds an inch or so apart; when the plants mature to three inches tall or more, separate them so they sit at least 4 inches apart.

Extend the season with interval planting

Chard is an ideal veggie for interval planting since it’s a quick-growing crop. Plant your chard in sections every 10-14 days for 4-6 weeks to keep your crop gracing your table for longer.

Or try indoor planting

Low on garden space or experiencing wonky weather at the start of your season? That won’t affect your chard crop for now—just soak the seeds in water for about a day, then plant them 1/2 inch deep in the soil of indoor pots and wait about 1-2 weeks for sprouts to show.

One plant, multiple chard harvests

Harvest your chard leaves before they’re overgrown (they’ll lose their flavor) and before they bolt (which makes them bitter).

Remember to harvest chard in layers

Chard grows in layers (inside and outside). Harvest the outer leaves first by cutting the leaves 1-2 inches above the ground (don’t “pluck” them off entirely, or they won’t grow back). That leads us to another great thing about chard—if you harvest correctly, you’ll get two full rounds of growth from the same plant.

How to grow lentils

The most important step, as always, is to stake out a suitable plot for your new legume venture.

Sunlight

Lentils grow best in full sun—that means at least 6-8 hours of full sun access every day.

Soil

Lentils love nutrient-rich, well-drained soil; however, like many legume plants, they will make due with most anything you throw at them. To give them the healthiest possible start, work organic material like manure or compost into the soil in the fall before planting.

Water

Lentils do best in moist soil, although they will tolerate periods of dry soil better than many plants. 

How to plant lentils

Lentils should be planted from seed about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) deep and 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) apart. Depending on the success of the germination period, plants may need to be thinned—as they mature, they should be given about 5 inches (12 cm) of space between plants and 2 feet (.6 m) or more of space between each row.

Starting lentils indoors

Lentil plants can also be started indoors about 2-4 weeks before you intend to transplant.

Or grow them in containers

If your soil is less-than-ideal or you want to switch things up, lentils can also be grown in containers—but they have to be big ones. Make sure the containers are at least 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) deep, and grow only one lentil plant per container. This is a great way to add interest to a garden, but remember, you still need many lentil plants to achieve a worthwhile yield.

Harvesting and storing lentils

Most often, lentils are left to harden on the plants for about 100 days, then stored in the same way as dry beans or grains. They’ll last about a year this way and can then be cooked for use in soups, stir-fries, and salads.

You can store them fresh after allowing them to mature for 70-80 days, too, but they’ll only last for about a week in refrigeration.

How to grow cabbage

Cabbage requires care from start to finish, but its nutrient-dense and flavorful leaves are a favorite across cultures.

Start cabbage seeds indoors

Cabbage can be picky about the weather it tolerates (cool, but not cold or hot). Therefore, it’s important to start seeds indoors in trays or pots about 2 months before the last major spring frost.

Prepare the soil

Cabbage plants are heavy feeders—meaning they need a steady flow of nutrients to thrive. Mix generous amounts of compost or manure into the soil when it’s soft enough to work.

Plant them far apart

Cabbages can get huge—as large as 3 feet (1 meter) in width. Give them plenty of room to sprawl in your garden.

Maintain soil temps and moisture

Once you’ve transplanted your cabbage seedlings, place mulch on top of their bed to help retain moisture and keep the soil cool.

Cabbage pest management

Unfortunately, pests and diseases alike love cabbage as much as people do. Some of its more common foes include:

• Cabbage worms: They won’t always ruin your crop, but no one wants to eat leaves full of holes. Remove them when you see them or use a deterrent crop to draw them away.
• Slugs: These slimy pests can be drawn away with the tried-and-true “beer in a bowl” trick or a variety of other at-home methods.
• Club root: This nasty fungal infection is spread, predictably, by incredibly resilient spores. It affects the health of your cabbages’ roots, making it difficult for them to absorb nutrients and water. Use crop rotation and disease-resistant cabbage varieties to combat this issue.

How to grow endive

The great thing about endive plants is that their seeds can be planted directly in the ground. They tend to “expand”, so you’ll need to thin them halfway through their growth to 6-8 inches apart, but they are otherwise a pretty maintenance-light crop for the busy gardener.

Picking the right spot

Nonetheless, ideal growing conditions will yield you better-looking and better-tasting endive plants.

Sun conditions for endives

Endives (and their relative, escarole) prefer full sun. You can later cover (or blanch) them to reduce their slightly bitter taste to suit your preference.

Endive soil preferences

Endives prefer well-drained, light, and nutrient rich soil, but they’ll tolerate just about anything. Just make sure to water them regularly—too-dry soil may force them to bolt, ruining your crop.

Maintenance

Endives are relatively labor-free crops but do require some periodic maintenance: their soil should be kept moist, and they fare best with regular fertilizations every 2-3 weeks.

Try endives indoors

For the space- or soil-challenged gardener, endives are a great solution. They can be grown indoors from seed to harvest.

Containers

Use a bucket or a large, deep plastic tray with holes in the bottom and plant the seeds in rich, well-drained soil.

Maintenance

Then, store the containers in a cool (50-60°F/10-16°C) place. Keep the plants moist by dunking the bottoms of the containers in water (watering upside-down, in other words).

Harvest

Indoor endives are usually ready to harvest within 6 weeks. Most will re-grow, so lob off the top portion cleanly but leave the bottom portion.

How to grow purslane

Your first option is to see if it’s hanging out in your yard or garden bed already. If it is, the work is done for you! You can cultivate seeds from the flowers, move the whole plant, or lob off some of its stems to re-plant it.

Growing from seed

If you’re growing it from seed, don’t worry about the conditions of the soil, although its succulent tendencies mean purslane prefers dry, aerated, well-drained soil.

Watering

You can water it from seed and then ignore it for the rest of the season. It’s one of the few plants that thrives in dry soil (although rain won’t harm it unless it’s excessive).

Keep purslane warm

Purslane does not like the cold, so do your best to grow it in full sun and try to ensure that it’s planted at a time when temperatures won’t get down below 50°F (10°C).

Harvesting purslane

Harvesting purslane is as effortless as growing it. Cut off as many stems as you’d like at a time, pick off the leaves (if you’re patient) or simply pluck the whole plant.

Re-growth

As a plant with weed-like tendencies, purslane is determined. So, to get the most out of your plant, you can leave a couple of inches of the stem intact when you harvest, and it will likely regrow. Beware: After a couple re-growths, the stem may become too unpleasant to eat.

Eating purslane: the best part

And now, let’s address the question that’s been on your mind: What do you do with an edible weed? Aside from enjoying its unique flavor—it’s kind of like a crunchy cucumber flavored like a tangy lemon—it can be enjoyed cooked or raw.

Prepping purslane

You may not find much use for the stems, so if that’s the case, clamp your hand around the stem firmly and pull against the “grain” of the leaves to remove them from the stem en-masse. Then:

• Raw: Add the green leaves to salad for a crunchy, lemon-y zing. Don’t worry, it’s a mild flavor if picked in evening, but it definitely has a punch to it if picked in the morning.
• Cooked: Purslane is delicious sautéed and added to stews, pastas, and soups.

How to grow leeks

Leeks are like milder, sweeter onions with a smaller bulb at the end (and edible leaves). They even have similar requirements for growth.

Planting

Once you have this down, your leeks are pretty much golden (or white, as it may be).

Timing

Start your seeds in indoor containers as early as 10-14 weeks before the last frost to get a head start on their very slow grow time (4 months or more). Make sure to place them in an area that gets plenty of sun. Water them regularly.

Transplanting

Plant your seedlings after the frost when the ground is soft and easy to work.

Prepping the soil for leeks

Leeks love compost, so it’s recommended to mix in or replace some of your regular garden soil with a generous layer of compost. Dig a hole that’s 6-8 inches deep, plant the young leeks in your soil and compost mixture, and cover them with a layer of soil that reaches their green leaves.

Maintenance till harvest

Leeks are pretty self-sufficient, but they do require a little love and care to keep them at their finest.

Maintaining their cover

You can and should add more soil if the white bases start peeking out of the soil as they grow.

Water them thoroughly

Leeks love moisture almost as much as they love being protected, so keep the soil moist till harvest. However, the deeper they’re planted, the more resistant to dryness your leeks will generally be.

Keep them cool and moist

Leeks prefer not to be baked, so add a layer of straw or mulch on top of their garden bed in hot weather to help the soil retain moisture and coolness.

How to grow cauliflower

Most spring or fall seasons aren’t long enough to bring cauliflower to maturity from seed to harvest, as this labor-heavy brassica plant requires consistent temperatures between 60 and 70̈°F (15 and 21°C) to succeed. For that reason, the first and most important thing to do for your cauliflower is to start it indoors pre-season.

Create the ideal cauliflower environment

While your seeds grow indoors, give your cauliflower a head start by preparing the perfect bed.

Sun is key for cauliflower

Cauliflower needs full sun (6 hours or more) to thrive. However, if it will be exposed to high heat at any point (which is highly discouraged), it also needs to be in a spot where it can be shielded from the sun if necessary.

Get the nutrients flowing

Cauliflower needs nutrient-rich soil to succeed. Mix in a liberal amount of manure and/or compost (or composted manure) before planting.

Note: Throughout the growing process, add a nitrogen supplement or a nitrogen-rich plant food several times as needed to keep your cauliflower well-fed.

Mulch, mulch, mulch

Cauliflower crops can be ruined by the wrong soil temperatures or extended periods of dry soil. So it’s not just important to water it regularly; it’s also important to help the soil conserve moisture by mulching upon transplant (and as needed throughout the growing season).

How to harvest the perfect cauliflower heads

Cauliflower requires a great amount of patience—many plants will take a full three months from transplant to be ready to “head” to your kitchen.

Blanching

When the heads look almost ready to harvest (1-2 weeks before you plan to cut them), tie the outer leaves around the nearly mature heads. This is called blanching (which means depriving the heads of sunlight) and helps create the bright-white color you see in store-bought cauliflower.

Don’t worry: If you don’t have time, you don’t have to do this. Your cauliflower will just be green instead of white.

Storage

Once you’ve cut off the blanched heads (with leaves intact to help preserve the heads), you should use them in your cooking quickly—they only last for about a week before they spoil.

Saving excess cauliflower

Too much cauliflower? That’s okay. It doesn’t last long in the fridge, but it can be easily frozen—or, of course, pickled and given as a gift or used as a side dish at dinner.

Alternative growing methods

Cauliflower can be a finicky little (big) thing, so some people opt to grow it in containers for greater control. With the same growing conditions in mind, use a large pot, barrel, or even a creatively painted pile of tires for each individual cauliflower plant.

Container cauliflower endeavors are usually not practical for large-scale growth but can be perfect for just a few plants.

How to grow broccoli

As with any plant, the most important step to achieving a successful broccoli crop is setting up a broccoli-friendly environment.

Soil requirements

Broccoli likes exceptionally well-drained soil—so much so that sandier soil is preferable if it’s available. Its seeds can germinate in soil as cold as 40°F (4.5°C), but use caution—if it’s exposed to outside temperatures that stay cold for too long, it won’t continue to grow.

Fertilization is key

Broccoli needs a lot of nutrients to flourish, so it’s advisable to get it started right by mixing compost or manure into the soil before planting.

Fertilize as-needed but at least one additional time after planting—about one month after your seeds have been sown.

If the leaves of your broccoli start to turn yellow, your soil may be deficient in nitrogen. Fertilize again immediately.

The planting process

Once you’ve prepped a proper plot for your broccoli, it’s time to plant. Each seed should be about a foot apart from its neighbor—broccoli gets rather large, after all.

Water broccoli regularly

Broccoli needs constant moisture to thrive, so it’s not for those who are rarely home to tend their garden. But beware: you should avoid getting the heads wet while watering (although, with rain, it can’t be avoided) or you’ll risk mildew problems that can spoil your crop.

Harvesting broccoli

Broccoli is fairly easy to harvest—you know it’s ready when the tiny buds on the heads are hard, but not yet yellow or black—the latter can be a sign that they’re past their prime.

Did you know?

Broccoli tastes best when it’s been harvested in the morning, so aim for an early-AM harvest—before the sun has gotten to it—if you can.

How to grow asparagus

Like its single-season counterparts, the most important thing to do before planting asparagus is to find and prep the right spot for a bed.

Find somewhere permanent

Because asparagus is permanent enough to become a part of the family, pick a place for its bed that you’ll never have to disrupt—preferably a small distance away from other beds that will be dug up or rotated more often.

Create ideal asparagus growing conditions

Asparagus has simple tastes: it likes full sun, nutrient-rich soil, and a well-drained place to call home.

Creating a nutrient-rich environment

In the fall before your spring planting, treat the soil with several inches of compost or manure. Mix it in to the soil thoroughly.

Abolish weeds early on

For optimum success, you’ll also want to make sure your asparagus bed is as weed-free as possible before planting—the plants don’t like to be disturbed.

If you have weed issues, consider doing several rounds of thorough weeding or stifling weed growth with a plastic cover.

Make sure the asparagus’ soil is well-drained

Asparagus doesn’t do well in standing water (and the inground part of the plant doesn’t like to stay wet), so good, loose, well-drained soil is crucial.

How to plant asparagus

First off, you won’t plant asparagus seeds—instead, you’ll use “crowns” (one-year-old plants) or seedlings (baby plants) transplanted into a permanent bed.

Plant in the spring

More specifically, you want to plant as soon as the risk of frost has passed and the soil is loose enough to work.

Dig deep

Your asparagus plants like to be rooted firmly in the ground, so dig a depression in the soil that’s between 6 and 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) deep.

Give asparagus room to grow

Asparagus is not a low-profile plant, so it’s recommended that the young plants be placed between 10 and 18 inches (25 to 46 cm) apart. Cover their roots and the bottom of the crowns with soil after planting, then water them thoroughly.

Covered vs. uncovered asparagus

Some people prefer white (blanched or sun-deprived) asparagus, while others prefer the green variety. If you prefer white (often considered the nuttier and less sweet variety compared to green), you’ll need to make one simple change to your growing practice: keep your asparagus plants covered as they grow. To do this, you can hill them (cover the spears in soil), install a row cover, cover the spears in mulch and plastic, or cover each plant individually with large containers or buckets.

The waiting game: maintaining asparagus

You may wait three full seasons before your asparagus is ready to harvest. In the meantime, it needs a few simple things to stay strong and healthy through the passing of seasons.

Feed it

Asparagus will need periodic “refills” on the nourishment front. Add compost and/or plant food several times a year (primarily during the summer) to keep it growing strong.

Mulch it

Toward the end of its first summer—after the plants have had a chance to grow significantly—add a layer of mulch over the thoroughly weeded bed to discourage further weed growth.

Then mulch yearly as needed.

Remove dead weight

Or, more accurately, remove dead growth—limp, dead, or browning foliage can be removed from the plants every fall and as-needed in between. If you’re growing white (blanched) asparagus, you’ll need to re-cover the plants after every clipping.

And, of course, water it

Asparagus should be watered regularly during the spring and summer unless you’re in a high-precipitation location. Make sure to water gradually so it doesn’t sit in standing water for extended periods of time.

The fun part: harvesting asparagus

A few simple asparagus harvesting tips and a little precision will have you harvesting delicious spears for up to three weeks every summer.

How to harvest uncovered (green) asparagus:

• To harvest asparagus, use a knife or sharp scissors to cut 6-inch (15-cm) or longer spears that are at least as thick as a pencil.
• Cut them off where the spear meets the soil.
• When the spears start growing foliage at the top, they are past their prime harvest date—leave these be.

Harvesting covered (white) asparagus:

If you’re growing white asparagus, you’ll need to remove your row covers or soil from the spears every time you want to harvest, then cover the spears again when you’re done.

How to grow artichokes

Artichokes, left to blossom, are actually beautiful flowers—but what you want to eat are the flower buds.

Ideal growing conditions lead to greater harvests

First, know that the weather is a huge factor in your artichoke outcomes: in order to get multiple harvests, you need to live in an area with mild winters and summers. Too many frosts can kill your plants.

If you have mild weather…

Choose your artichokes’ location knowing that they could be there for 3-5 years. They likely won’t take well to moving.

Beyond the weather, artichokes also need:

• Full to partial sun
• Sandy or loamy soil—they need good drainage
• High levels of fertilization, especially potassium—make sure to fertilize once per month or more.

How to plant artichokes

Artichokes need space to grow—they’re not tiny, after all. Plant them 3-5 feet apart from each other.

Make sure your soil is composted thoroughly before adding your artichoke seeds or seedlings. Compost helps with drainage and the dispersal of nutrients to your young plants.

Maintaining artichokes pre-harvest

Artichoke maintenance is pretty simple in their active growing season (spring and summer). During this time, make sure to water them thoroughly without drowning them and fertilize 1-2 times per month with plant food or liquid fertilizer.

Mulch

Artichokes also love to be mulched—it helps regulate soil temperatures and keeps weeds away. 

Remove mulch when buds appear

You can—but don’t have to—remove the mulch when you notice tasty buds blooming. In its place, use compost for a burst of extra nutrients. This may or may not be necessary depending on the health of your soil.

Overwintering artichokes

If you live in a mild-temperature area, try to keep your artichokes alive during the off-season by:

• Pruning them in the fall
• Adding a generous amount of mulch to their bed

If you anticipate some mild snows and frosts:

• The artichokes should be covered from above by something strong and protective.
• Many people use plastic tarps, although they must be held up so snow doesn’t weigh down the plants.